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When I first heard about the Transfagarasan road it was described with a sense of awe, as “the higest road in Europe”, as an engineering miracle commanded by Ceausescu who ordered it as part of his military strategy. A quick look on the internet shows that it isn’t the highest road in Europe, but neither is the Col de la Bonette, the French claim which is challenged by the Brits from the Hidden Europe magazine who say: “There are tarmac roads in the Alps which are higher, and if you are prepared to take gravel roads into account, then many are much higher.” But at an altitude of 2000m the Transfag is no slouch and I reckon it is about the 5th highest road in Europe. (more…)
Making films is probably the most boring profession in the world — as well as the most glamorous. They say making films is like going to war: lots of hanging around while not knowing what the hell is going on; and then a sudden, brief, unsatisfactory burst of action.
In Romania, as in every country, there are stereotypes about which places are worth visiting. If I tell people I am from Scotland many say they would love to visit Edinburgh but it is rare you hear people saying they want to see Glasgow, which is a more interesting city in many ways. When I travelled round India (20 years ago) everyone said I should avoid Calcutta (now Kalkota) as it is just a vast sprawling slum full of insolent Bengalis. But I found it to be the most compelling place in India. 
I am sitting in a Ministry of Culture seminar about film making and it has all the hallmarks of a rotten event: a huge queue at the registry desk (but nobody saying hello), nowhere for coats, coffee servers arguing among themselves, an electrical fault that the secretary of state loudly complains about, doors that squeak horribly every time someone comes in (and there was a constant flow of latecomers), a loud buzzing noise from the speakers and technical problems with the presentations.
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When I was in Montenegro recently I checked into a small guest house and asked if they had internet. “Of course we do” boomed the big cheery lady who runs the place, but when I tried to get online it didn’t work. I asked for help and she went to fetch the Siberian who was living with his wife on the floor below. “He knows English” she cried as she hurried down the frozen stone steps.
In my view the best way to travel in Eastern Europe is by train. It is cheap, interesting and relaxing. But why, you might be wondering, would anyone want to travel across the Balkans in the winter, especially such a cold one as this? My mission was to sign a piece of paper in Podgorica, the capital of Montenegro. The job itself took about 20 minutes, most of which was spent hanging around, but getting there took me two nights on a sleeper train and getting back another two nights. I got the train from Bucharest to Bar, via Belgrade. 
We should be grateful to the Russians and Ukranians for the warning that central Asian gas supplies are insecure. We must heed the warning and start moving more urgently to renewable sources of energy, as this is the only way for the EU to have energy independence. The Kiev – Moscow row about gas bills has been going on for years and is unlikely to be resolved anytime soon.
When I saw Romania’s army marching through Bucharest last week it struck me how out of date Romania’s military is. The brass band music and gendarme uniforms are from nineteenth century France, the authoritarian voice-over and elderly commanders are from Soviet Russia, and the 50 ton tanks are WW2. None of it is useful against modern day threats.